How to Make a Basic Gothic Lolita Skirt

Both of the below assume that you know the basics of sewing, and know how to make ruffles.

This is how I make a basic, staple lolita skirt that is around knee length and will accomodate a pretty good size petticoat. To make an unlined skirt from this pattern with one row of self-ruffle and a row of lace just above the self ruffle, you'll need about 1 1/2 yards of fabric, 2 to 2 1/2 yards of lace, and some 3/4" elastic. If you want to line the skirt and ruffles, you'll need 3 yards of fabric. 2 1/2 if you want to line just the skirt. Make sure you have plenty of thread. Pre-fill a couple bobbins. Long hems with lots of ruffle means that you'll need it.



To draw up the pieces :

1. Draw the bottom straight line (the dashed line across the bottom) an inch up from where you want the bottom of the skirt to be. The length you choose will depend on your height, how close to your knees you want the hem, and how much of a ruffle you plan on adding. To figure this out, decide on the total length you want the skirt to be. Subtract how much of it you want to be ruffle, then add two inches back on to account for hems and for the turning over of the waistband.
2. Draw a parallel straight line an inch below this that is about 4" shorter than the first on each end. Make a gentle curve up from the ends of the bottom line to the ends of the top line on each side.
3. At the top, draw the top line, centered in relation to the bottom line. Take a ruler/yardstick and connect the edges of the top line to the edges of the bottom line. Voila, loliskirt pattern.
4. Cut out two of the lining (if making one) and two of the main skirt pattern. Sew up one side seam, make the top and bottom hems, attach the ruffles and lace to the bottom, make the elastic casing, thread through enough elastic to stretch over your hips 2", and sew the last sideseam. Voila, loliskirt!

This is the skirt I made using this method.

You will need at least one panel of "lining" cut in the shape of the basic skirt for this, and a bunch more of the lining fabric to turn into ruffle. If your bustle ruffles are made of something expensive, I suggest getting some inexpensive broadcloth to attach them to instead of using the same fabric.



The above measurements are just approximations of the ones found on my big-size bustle overskirt pattern. The measurements should be about the same for the small size one, too.

This is made with the same general method as the basic skirt. The front main panel will be normal, the back overskirt will be made by the above instructions, and the back underskirt will have rows of ruffle sewn on.
I used four parallel rows of four inch ruffles to form the "bustle" of an 18" long skirt. You could make more rows of shorter ruffle, if you wanted. I wouldn't advise using fewer than 3 rows of ruffle or more than six. You can extend the rows all the way across the basic pattern piece, or just far enough to fill the space not covered by the overskirt.

You could also use wide rows of ruffled eyelet lace/broderie anglais in place of fabric ruffles. It'd save a lot of work but probably be kinda expensive.

Credits: seeinglife of egl livejournal.com; "Gothic Lolita Skirt How To" [online] available at http://egl.livejournal.com

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